Where to get trees to plant in fall?

Scott Clearman

New Member
I would like to find a source of affordable trees to plant this fall. I think I could plant in a few weeks and avoid the hottest of summer. My thinking is the roots would be able to grow and develop for a couple months now, then start again in Feb. or March when the ground warms up, getting a good jump on setting good roots prior to next years summer.

I'm looking for a source. Any of you East Texas or North Texas guys know of a nursery or tree farm who has them available?
 
I think you would be better off waiting until the trees are dormant. If they just get a slight start this fall, and then Texas gets hit with some cold temps, that may get them. Just my opinion. Talk with some nursery guys in your area
 
My ground typically doesnt get 'cold' until at least December. We have cold spells for a few days then warm up again, I've seen it in the 80's many times in November.
 
Where you are I am sure a fall planting would be fine because fall planting works fine where I am and I am much further north...
 
Mossy oak native nursery ships in the fall for many oak species, mostly Chinese chestnuts, wildlife pears and seedling crabapples for your deer.

Big horse Creek farm and I believe the wildlife group both ship fruit trees in the fall, failure also ships oaks and chestnuts in the fall.
 
If you are talking about fruit trees then about the only place to get some is local nurseries or the box stores such as Home Depot or Lowes. Starting usually the first of September they will get a shipment of trees in for fall plantings. Major problem is finding apples that are actual wildlife trees that are disease resistant. Every now and then they will have a few disease resistant varieties. However, HD almost always has some Kieffer , Orient, and Moonglow pears--which are good wildlife pears. If you wait long enough a lot of times you can get them for 50% off later in the fall.

I have had good luck planting them in the fall from pots. More than likely there will be some significant root circling so you need to take of that when planting.

If you are looking for some good dz resistant apple varieties then I would recommend ordering them from online nursery and planting bare roots.

Just let us know what you are wanting to plant so we can give you advise on varieties and root stock.

todd
 
As Paul Harvey would say, "and now for the rest of the story."

4 years ago we bought 27 acres which had been growing Mesquite trees and Locusts. About 1/3-1/2 of it was cleared with a dozer prior to buying. We built a house on the northern edge. I have been wanting to plant trees since then. I have wanted mast bearing trees, primarily oaks, chestnuts, pecans, as well as fruit trees such as apples and pears and possibly persimmon.

2 years ago I purchased "Gobbler Sawtooth" acorns from a gentleman on the QDM Forums. I got about 100 acorns, stratified until spring, planted in peat pots, and then lost all but the 3 I had near the house for lack of water and intense heat.
This year I got some of the chestnuts from Wbpdeer, got them stratified, planted.....and have lost all of the ones that I put out in the field.

I'm pretty much convinced now that spring planting for me is almost a certain death sentence for the trees/seedlings/acorns. I would like to try fall planting and see how that will work. It will also give me some time to figure out a watering system for summer. Problem is chestnuts and red oaks have to be stratified which mean if I start with acorns I'm back into spring, or pot and replant next fall. I'm not opposed to that either.

So, what I'm looking for is a combination of things; Mast producing trees which can be planted now (this fall), as well as mast producing tree seeds/acorns to plant and care for in containers and replant next fall.
I'm also thinking really hard about some hybrid poplar cuttings to get some treelines established and shading some longer term trees.
 
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I read 60 miles Southeast of Fort Worth/Dallas area. What does the heat index climb to in the summer? How many weeks do you have intense heat?

For your trees to survive, you have to provide moisture and conserve moisture. Also, you have to provide some shade to the trees when they are young (1st two Summers). No matter where you are located protecting trees has just got to occur.

Is it possible to provide any watering during the most stressful periods of heat?


The lesson I learned this year - provide shade over the tree to reduce the hot sun during a heat wave. If a tree was getting 8 hours of sunlight - I would try to limit that 4 or 5 hours. It sure helped my seedlings.

I am interested in helping you solve your dilemma.
 
I am interested in helping you solve your dilemma.

Another example of why I'm so appreciative of you guys and thankful we continued this group forum over here at DHF.

Good luck Scott. We have some very knowledgable tree guys here that have dealt with the same issues as you. You've come to the right place.
 
Get tubes and landscape fabric and plant sawtooths the first couple years.They are very drought resistant. Shoot for a 50% loss the first year,Its a numbers game.Keep planting.I recommend planting seedlings instead of seeds the first few years cause you will have a long root system.
 
I recommend that you read my thread, "The Brushpile" which is in the properties section. I figured out how to grow trees in drought conditions, and I'd be happy to answer questions.

I have field planted 100's of Chestnuts and Chinkapins with zero success, every last one was consumed by something! You need to plant bare root in the Fall/Winter and use a 5'x5' weed mat as a moisture barrier, and a tree tube.
 
I use two 15 gallon sprayer tanks on my 4 wheeler in Central Oklahoma. Every yr I will plant several hundred new trees and tube every tree, I have 500 going in this fall and will do around the same in spring. My evenings are consumed by watering them. A gallon a piece will keep them alive if tubed. I usually make it back to the tree twice a week on good weeks. This summer has been a little cooler with 100 being about the hottest. Several yrs ago when it was pushing 110-115 everyday for weeks on end my sawtooth could still handle one gallon a week but the others had to be hit twice or they were lost. Fruit trees will require more water than that, especially if they are big box store trees with lots of top and few roots. I had to mulch around my fruit trees to keep them alive. I also keep a chicken poop/water tank filled at all times. I add one gallon of poop tea to every 15 gallons of water. It's not giving them much, but at least it is one less stress the tree has to deal with. It's a ton of work, but nothing comes easy when it doesn't rain for months.
 
I would like to find a source of affordable trees to plant this fall. I think I could plant in a few weeks and avoid the hottest of summer. My thinking is the roots would be able to grow and develop for a couple months now, then start again in Feb. or March when the ground warms up, getting a good jump on setting good roots prior to next years summer.

I'm looking for a source. Any of you East Texas or North Texas guys know of a nursery or tree farm who has them available?


Scott,
Try Richard O Barham Arborgen nursery in Bullard,Texas

Their bareroot catalogue is on line

60$/100 1s a pretty good deal

I have had success with allegheny chincapins and sawtooths in sandy loam soil in hot ,arid,dry east texas summers

also, google up Texas A&M agrilife tree selector

They will recommend trees for your county

Keep planting!!!

bill
 
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